Cockpit control lights:
It's pretty annoying when one or more cockpit control lamps inside the cockpit don't work especially the oil pressure and charge control lamps. In most cases the problem is very simple, the contacts inside the cockpit are oxidate due to moist.
To solve the problem remove the cockpit by loosening the three screws in front of the cockpit, releasing the connector on the back en releasing the cables from the speedometer and tachometer (1978+ only speedometer).
Remove the back of the cockpit and carefully take out the little bulbs. Take special care because the lamps are put into a flexible foil that can brake down easily. Clean the contacts of the foil and clean the metal strips from the lamps. Put the lamps back in place. When you have an ohm-meter you can measure if every lamp is ok now, the layout of the cockpit connector can be found elsewhere on this pages.
When the problem still resides while the cockpit is ok the problem must be found in the wiring or the various sensors.
The oil pressure sensor is a switch that can be found on the left side of the engine below the carburator. By removing the wire from the sensor it can easily measured, normally the switch makes contact and when there's oil pressure it opens. When you don't have a measure device you can put a lamp between the switch and the positive pole from the battery, the lamp must burn when there's no oil pressure. The oil pressure control lamp must always lighten up when you make contact without starting.
(When there's no oil pressure you will know by now :-()
The brake fluid switch resides on top of the brake fluid reservoir under the gas tank. By releasing the cover of the reservoir and taking it out the lamp must burn because it detects no fluid anymore. If the lamp still don't work the problem can be the switch itself or the wiring. The two wires on the switch can be taken off and held together then the lamp in the cockpit must lighten up, if not the wiring is somewhere broken, if so the switch itself is broken.
The neutral switch is found under the gearbox, the place where all rain passes by and where leaking oil is passing by also. When this switch isn't working the engine will not start without holding the clutch handle. When the engine is in neutral the switch makes contact, otherwise it doesn't. When releasing the wire from the switch and putting it against the metal of the engine the lamp must lighten up, if not you have a wiring problem, if so the switch is broken.
The turn control light is the least important and comes straight from the clignoteur (I used this signal for an extra buzzer so that I can hear it when the blinker is on, later models do have this option).
The charge control light is important so that you know in time that you're ignition runs on the battery only and your radius in action is decreasing badly. the charge light is put between the battery and the voltage regulator, when there is 12 volt on the regulator and 12 volt on the battery the lamp doesn't lit but when there's no signal from the regulator the lamp will light up. This situation takes place when you have contact and the engine doesn't run, in that case the lamp must light up.
(c) W.P.Barendsen 1998